🟢 Roasted Chickpeas. PlantBased. Fatty. Salty. Tasty.


Food addiction has never made sense to my simplistic mind. I know it’s trendy and fashionable but I just don’t get it. For the record, I took The Yale Food Addiction Scale, a series of questions designed specifically to assess signs of addictive-like eating behavior and I passed with flying colors. I love food. And I love to eat. And that’s what qualifies me on the YFAS tells as addicted!

If however there was ever a food that sort of qualified in my mind or my gut as “addictive” it’s those homemade roasted chickpeas pictured above. Lucky for me it’s really time consuming and tedious to make them myself. And lucky for me too that those convenience branded off the shelf products just don’t cut it. My home made beauties just taste so much better.

The ingredient list for my home made version reads – chickpeas, olive oil, salt. That’s as simple and straightforward as you can get.

Marketeers sell the benefits. And benefits are communicated with as many certification stickers as the designer can fit on package. Check out the healthy section of the supermarket and you’ll see a shout out for health claims and authenticity claims on every package of roasted chickpeas. Gluten Free. Grain Free. Nut Free. Vegan. NonGMO, Dairy Free. High Fiber. Plant-based Protein.

Industrial formulators love flavors. So it’s easy to spot a selection of flavor additives on package roasted chickpea products. I’ve noted cane sugar, natural flavor, citric acid, rosemary extract. And for extra pizazz I’ve seen innovative additions like balsamic vinegar and cracked pepper.

The advantage of course to the package product is convenience. Opening a package and gobbling it down is neither time consuming or tedious.

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There are so many certification stickers on some of the brands there’s hardly room for anything else. I’m assuming manufacturers put certifications on their products to promote sales. But have you ever wondered why certifications sell? The question has puzzled me for some time because I’m not attracted by a certification. But I think I may have finally figured out why.

I’m used to food categories and nutrients because I been food obsessed since birth and I used to be a dietitian. Imagine however how different the food world looks if you’ve grown up in a food culture that provided no hands on experience with food or access to nutrition education.

Suppose you don’t already know that a chickpea and a garbanzo bean are two different names for the same plant seed. Or if you’ve never realized that chickpeas can be sold in different stages of processing? Dried, packaged, and minimally processed. Processed and canned with salt. Or ultra-processed, roasted, packaged, and marketed in brightly colored packaged covered with certifications.

I already know that all chickpeas no matter the degree of processing are gluten free, dairy free, nut free, vegan, plant based, and a food source of fiber. For me it’s just common sense. But what I’ve come to appreciate is that there is a sizable number of my fellow Americans who are not as food literate as I am.

🟢 Turkish Yogurt Cake. Tasty. Tart. Sweet.

Here’s a picture of the yogurt cake I baked to celebrate the first day of Spring last year. The recipe comes from a beautiful book of Mediterranean recipes by Claudia Roden. The flavor profile balances tartness from lemon and yogurt against sweetness from cane sugar. This cake doesn’t fit the usual American profile for sweetness despite what looks to be a lot of sugar on the Nutrition Label. And based on the reaction of my guests, it’s okay as a dessert but as my daughter put it “It’s just not a real dessert Mom”.

The recipe is made with a squeaky clean list of ingredients – plain whole milk Greek yogurt, eggs, turbinado sugar, lemon juice, wheat flour, lemon zest. Quality ingredients don’t count for much these days because the primary focus is nutrients or food groups as carriers for nutrient dense composition. Our friendly food police dismisses the yogurt I use on the basis of too many grams of saturated fat. And they dismiss the sweetener on the basis of too many grams of added sugar. So it’s not surprising that food focused people like me have a hard time communicating with nutrient focused food scientists and dietitians who do the research and write the labels.

I always like to make the case that moderation is preferable to excess. But given the austere nutrient focused approach to sugar and “unhealthy” fat recommended by our dietary guidelines, moderation is no healthier than excess. This logic puts both my daughter’s ultra sweet “real dessert” and my yogurt cake with a balance between tart and sweet in the same not-healthy bucket.

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I’m thinking it’s time to redefine healthy and I’m going to start with a couple of common sense observations.

• Food counts. Whole, intact, real, natural, substantial, seasonal, regional, minimally processed, freshly prepared …

• Nutrients count. Cellular nutrients are the nutrient still intact within the cell structure of the food as opposed to nutrients that have been extracted or isolated or manufactured.

• Tradition counts. The yogurt cake honors a traditional eastern Mediterranean formulation. The recipe grew out of a culture that has integrated fermented milk products into the food culture for generations. And naturally fermented yogurt has always been made with whole milk because the industrial technology to process lower fat dairy products was not available.

Our current approach to healthy has been nutrient focused now for almost 50 years. Shifting the balance back to include food is long overdue.

🔴 Naan Pizza. Convenience comes at a cost.


Ingredients count. Those ingredients assembled above are the ones I use when I make naan pizza. It’s really tasty. And it doesn’t take a lot of time to assemble and cook. But sourcing the right ingredients is crucial. From left to right going counter clockwise, here’s what I need to assemble:

Red onion. Easy to pick up in most supermarkets.

Fresh Mozzarella. If you don’t live near a market or grocer that makes fresh mozzarella, you’re out of luck. Unless you’re willing to make your own which I’ve been told is pretty easy to do. I lucked out because both in the city and where I live in the Hudson Valley we have good sources.

Jarred Pesto. Italian industrial manufacturers have done a credible job with this classic olive oil, basil, parmigiana, pine nut mixture. For me at least. The brand I used depends on what the store I shop in carries. I avoid any brand that contains seed oil, natural flavors, flavor extracts, whey, starch, flours. Why avoid seed oil? Because pesto needs to be made with olive oil to taste good.

Marinara Sauce. As with pesto, the brand depends on the store I shop in. I avoid flavor additives of any kind and I look for whole peeled tomatoes instead of tomato purée.

Naan. The best tasting naan I’ve ever used was an artisan product made on a small scale and carried locally when we lived in New York City. Now that we’ve moved to the Hudson valley, I need to make do with what is available. The naan pictured above is an industrially formulated product made with a predictable set of dough conditioners, commodity seed oils, mold inhibitors, cosmetic additives, and extracts. It’s not as chewy or clean tasting as the naan I used to use but it works and it’s available.

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My naan pizza has two things going for it – taste and convenience. Well except for the time I spend sourcing. But I’m a fanatic when it comes to sourcing. If I could find a chewier, freshly baked tradition naan, I’d track it down too. But my choices are limited to what is reasonably available, so I need to compromise and settle for well crated shelf stable product formulated with a couple of cosmetic additives.

Pizza has many positive attributes going for it, but healthy is not one of them. So we’re already in the territory of comparative unhealthiness. I’m not even sure if the low-fat, low sodium versions meet the austere criteria favored by the food police. On the other hand, my naan pizza has a healthier nutrient profile than commodity brands or popular take out offerings. And because I use good quality ingredients which are flavorful in and of themselves, I don’t need to use as much salt.

🟡Taco Tuesday – Authentic taste. My kind of convenience.

I grew up eating Mexican street food. Just one of the many blessings from my California childhood. I do add my own variation now – local heirloom tomatoes in season and a couple of cocktail tomatoes off season. Adding veggies makes it a meal and if my corn tacos were a product I could probably make a healthy meal claim on the label.

The items above are not product placements and this post is not sponsored by any of the brands pictured above. Instead, it’s an acknowledgement that the tools of modern processing have value – convenience and shelf stability. These tools can and often are used to mass produce and market cheap junk and indulgences. But those same tools can be used to help a dedicated home cook like me.

The refried beans are made with pinto beans, water, onions, safflower and/or sunflower oil, garlic, salt, spices – no added flavors, colors, extracts, sugars, or other enhancements. I found other canned refried beans products on the self, even on made with lard which is the traditional fat for Mexican refried beans. But the refried beans I selected had the simplest cleanest list so that’s the one I selected.

The chipotle sauce is imported from Mexico 🇲🇽 and is just the right level of heat for my kind of palate. Chipotle peppers are ripened jalapeño chiles that have been smoked, dried, and ground and they are an integral part of Mexican cooking. 

My best find was those corn tortillas however. I find commodity brands and hard taco unpalatable. Little to no taste and the wrong texture. Some brands even upset my stomach. The tortillas I remember savoring and enjoying were slightly chewy and with a distinctive taste of corn. And the tortillas above taste exactly like the ones I remember. That’s because they are manufactured with corn masa in accordance with nixtamalization – an ancient fermentation method which respects the corn kernel’s cellular structure.

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Convenience counts. Even for a dedicated home cook like me. And with over 70% of the products on the supermarket shelf nowadays classified as ultra-processed, finding a product I like requires a strategy.

So here’s, what I look for – products that meet my taste expectations, are my kind of clean labeled (no flavors, gums, emulsifiers), made with simple recognizable intact ingredients, and save me time. I avoid cosmetic additives because I prefer to do my own seasoning and flavoring. Do I think cosmetic additives are dangerous? Not necessarily, but I’m okay with adhering to the precautionary principle and avoiding them for now.

That’s not how I feel about preservatives however. Why? Because I’m not okay with food poisoning. Or molds. For example, those beautiful corn tortillas don’t contain any chemical preservatives. If they stay on the shelf too long, they get moldy. So I store them in the freezer.

🟢Steel Cut Oats. Warm, chewy, sweet, and healthy.


A bowl of oatmeal made with steel cut oats is one of my favorite breakfasts. Especially appreciated when it’s cold outside and I want something warm inside my gut.

Steel cut oats are the closest version to oats in their whole, unprocessed form. Those unprocessed oats are called oat groats. Making oatmeal with steel cut oats is a time intensive process so it’s understandable why most of my fellow Americans prefer the option of quick cooked oats. But nothing can match the flavor of a well cooked soft, chewy, deliciously nutty consistency bowl of steel cut oatmeal.

The ingredient I use to make a bowl of oatmeal reads clean and un-trafficked: water, steel cut oats, blueberries, strawberries, pecans, turbinado sugar, butter, salt. You can see the pecans if you look closely for brown edges peaking out from time to time between oats and fruits. The ingredients I use are mostly minimally processed except for the culinary processed ingredients – sugar, butter, salt.

In one of those rare moments of consensus what tastes delicious to me actually matches what the friendly food police would allow me to label healthy. Whole Grains, Fruit, Protein (pecans are now protein foods) qualify my bowl of oatmeal as food. And as long as I limit my serving size to one cup, those nutrients of concern (added sugar, sodium, saturated fat) comply with current “healthy” thresholds.

In today’s food marketplace, oatmeals come in different degrees of processing. At one extreme is my bowl of steel cut oatmeal – time consuming to make and labor intensive to source and prep. At the other extreme is off the shelf instant oatmeal – boil in a cup, just add water, no added sugar made with novel or artificial sweeteners, often fortified with folate, and definitively #UPF ultra-processed.

And that brings me to the food matrix and cellular / acellular nutrition.

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The USDA defines “food matrix” as the nutrient and non-nutrient components of foods and their molecular relationships to each other. In other words the food matrix is the cell’s molecular structure.

There’s a complementary concept floating in and out of certain European research studies that focuses on cellular nutrients. The logic goes something like this – nutrients that remain within the cell structure – cellular nutrients – take longer to metabolize and by extension are considered healthier than nutrients that have been extracted then added back in.

Here in the US, both enrichment and fortification are common practice. And both processes require adding isolated nutrients back into a food product. Both are examples of acellular nutrients. Acellular nutrients are rapidly and completely digested in the stomach and small intestines.

Does the body care are whether nutrients arrive in a cellular structure or if these nutrients are acellular? Here in the US, the answer is pretty consistently that it makes no difference. Moreover, folate fortification has good research data to support a clear health benefit.

What can be said with certainty however is that our gut evolved over the millennia to metabolism cellular nutrients, not acellular nutrients.

🟢Green Split Pea Soup. Too much salt.

Winter is soup weather. The colder it get outside, and trust me here in New York’s Hudson Valley it can get pretty chilly, the more I appreciate a bowl of steaming hot soup. Warms me up from the inside out.

My ingredient list is simple. Green split peas, water, mirepoix (onion, carrot, fennel), olive oil, salt. It’s a tradition recipes made from scratch with no assistance from any processed or ultra-processed products so the recipes gets a green 🟢 dot.

I think I just heard someone ask what is a mirepoix? Mirepoix is a French word and it’s the basic flavor enhancement made for much of classic French cuisine. The French version consists of onion, carrot, celery. But the concept is global, infinitely mutable, and every traditional culinary cuisines uses some form of aromatic vegetable flavor base. It’s how cooks and chefs enhanced flavor prior to the industrial food era.

The taste of home made split pea soup can’t be captured in any canned or instant soup I’ve ever tasted. Cleaner. Fresher. More robust fully developed flavors. I’m not a food scientist so I can’t tell you why however. What I do know is the best quality ingredients make the most flavorful soup.

Industrially formulated soups will sometimes use combinations of aromatic vegetables but today it’s also common to use artificial or natural flavors. Industrial processors find it easier and cheaper to pick and choose from the myriad of flavorings now available.

Whether you are an home cook like me or an industrial manufacturer, the problem with soup is the same. Too much salt. Soup is notorious for being high in sodium. My home made version uses less than commercial brands do, but it’s still a lot. And for sure when it comes to using the word “healthy” on a product label, “healthy” is the Kiss of Death ☠️.

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Within our regulatory framework, there are multiple perspectives on how to evaluate salt and health outcomes. The health problem with salt is the relationship between sodium and blood pressure in some people. And the problem with high blood pressure is it can increase the risk for cardiovascular vascular disease. It’s at this point regulatory guidelines can get messy. Using the example of my homemade soup, let’s take a look at just how messy …

❌ The Nutrition Facts Label reflect a high sodium value. High means a cup provided more than 20% of the DV (Daily Value). The Dietary Guidelines has set the value for sodium at 2300mg per day using CDRR (Chronic Disease Risk Reduction) methodology.

✅ The FDA has established a Voluntary Sodium Reduction program for food processors and restaurants. This program evaluates sodium using grams per 100 for shelf stable soup. Without boring you with calculations, my homemade spite pea soup is already below target for all three categories – restaurant, frozen, and shelf stable soups.

It’s a dilemma and a bit of a kerfuffle. Is the food police going to come after me because when I salt to taste, I increase my risk for cardio vascular problems? Or should I get a standing ovation because I’m doing better than most of my fellow Americans because I my split pea soup is homemade?

🟢Walnut, Raisin, Rolled Oat Cookies. Too much sugar.

Cookies are scrumptious little bundles of calorie dense fat and sugar. And yes, there’s no way to argue than a good cookie is nutrient dense. Even a good cookie with made with whole grains and lots of walnuts and raisins like my home baked cookies pictured above.

So my little home baked beauties pictured above don’t stand a chance. I do use good ingredients so the list is NOVA friendly 🟢. The ingredient list includes minimally processed (rolled oats, walnuts, raisins, whole wheat flour, egg), some processed culinary (butter, sugar, salt), and only one ultra-processed (vanilla). But do NOVA friendly ingredients make my cookies nutrient dense?

The FDA (Food and Drug Administration) considers a food product healthy if two conditions are met. First there must be a “meaningful amount” of food from at least one of the five food groups. Second, nutrient dense as determined by the amount of sodium, saturated fat, added sugars per serving.

Do my carefully sourced ingredients constitute a “meaningful amount”? No problem here. But that’s also true for a comparable premium branded product. How about those nutrient thresholds? Comparing my cookies by weight to a comparable branded product, both the percentage DVs are virtually the same. Both are equally “unhealthy” and both equally tasty.

Could a manufacturer engineer a “healthy” fat free sugar free oatmeal raisin cookie? Absolutely yes I’m convinced it could be done.  If there’s customer demand for it, food manufacturers will find a way to make it happen by substituting novel or artificial sweeteners for sugar.

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Here’s my take on sugar and sugar substitutes. The best approach is to develop a taste for less sweet things. The next best approach is to be mindful of the options:

• Novel. These are sweeteners derived from natural plant sources. They are called novel because unlike cane sugar they have not been part of our usual American dietary pattern until recently.   Allulose, Monk fruit, Stevia, Agave, and Tagatose are the most common.

• Artificial. These sweeteners are laboratory engineered and manufactured. The list includes Aspartame, Saccharin, Sucralose, and Various Sugar Alcohols.

• Traditional. These are sweeteners we recognize. Besides cane or beet sugar, the list includes honey, dates, maple syrup, molasses.

My personal choice is traditional sweeteners because I like the taste. But I don’t have much of a sweet tooth so I’m not at risk for developing an addiction. And I’m not diabetic.

🟡Steamed Artichokes. Exceptions to every rule.

The artichoke may be the most daunting vegetable to challenge human culinary creativity. Thorny on the outside. Tough and fibrous on the inside. Except of course for the tip of each leaf and that artichoke heart which is savory, delicate, but inedible unless the choke is removed. The artichokes pictured above are French from a farmers market just outside of Paris. But they look just like the artichokes I used to eat growing up in California.

My preferred preparation is to steam artichokes and serve them cold or room temperature with a dressing part whole milk yogurt and part commercial mayonnaise.

But 66% calories UPF! How is that possible?  How can such a simple preparation be so significantly ultra-processed? The answer is because it’s customary to count UPF by weight when describing supermarket shelf space but to count UPF by calories when describing consumption.

That means we need to check both ingredients and calories. The artichokes themselves are minimally processed of course. My plain yogurt is processed. Milk becomes yogurt through fermentation, a traditional processing method that preserves whole milk by means of lactic acid.

The culprit is the commercial mayonnaise. I make the dressing 2 parts yogurt to one part mayonnaise. By weight, the mayonnaise constitutes only 12% UPF of the weigh of the sauce. By calories, the numbers look a lot different however. The ingredients for a good off the shelf mayo starts with oil, usually soybean or canola, eggs, vinegar, salt, sometimes sugar, preservatives, flavors. It’s the presence of preservatives and flavors that determine degree of processing but it’s the oil that determines the calorie contribution. So it’s the mayo that is responsible for that scary percentage –  66% UPF. And that’s the reason my steamed artichokes get a yellow 🟡 dot.

Do I know how to make my own mayonnaise? Yes I do. Am I going to stop using off the shelf mayo because it has added flavors and preservatives. No way.

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Here’s my take on flavor additives and preservatives.

• Preservatives. I don’t have a problem with their use. Some are better than others, but the way I see things, a preservative is better than food poisoning.

• Flavors. I do have a problem with added flavors because I want flavor to come from the food on the plate. It also doesn’t matter to me if flavor is laboratory engineered or extracted from natural ingredients. I avoid both. Flavor should come from quality ingredients. Like robust freshly harvested artichokes. Or naturally fermented plain yogurt. But I don’t get concerned when the manufacturer adds a flavor to the mayo unless I am willing to make time to do the grunt work myself.

🟡Grilled Chicken, Red Peppers, Pinto Beans, Pasta. Moderate salt.

Food is complex. Nutrition is wicked hard. Cutting through all those layers is no small feat, but I’m going to give it my best shot.

Americans are used to starting with nutrients. So my first suggestion is to forget nutrients for a moment and focus on the food. Those gorgeous red peppers. The grilled chicken strips. That occasional pinto bean that is peeking out here and there. Or the pasta. The Italians call the pasta “elicodale” which translates into English as spiral shaped and as you can see those deep ridges create a sort of spiral pattern.

The grilled chicken dish is freshly prepared with traditional ingredients. But as noted above, nearly a third of the calories come from ingredients which are classified as ultra-processed – NOVA Group 4 UPF. These ingredients are the grilled chicken, the vegetable broth, and the tomato basil sauce.

These three items are industrially formulated convenience products and all were developed relatively recently. Home cooks like me know that making vegetable broth or red sauce from scratch takes time. And cutting up and grilling chicken breast strips is messy. Scratch cooking tastes better, but life intercedes so I’m okay using industrially formulated products as long as they are made with simple intact ingredients and do not contain flavors, colors, texture modifiers, or acellular nutrients.

The 29% calories UPF noted above is the sum of the calories from the vegetable broth, grilled chicken, and tomato basil sauce. The yellow 🟡 dot means I used ultraprocessed products but each of the products I used are acceptable. To me.

Focusing on food is easy. For those not used to home cooking, it may take some practice but it’s a skill anyone can develop. It just takes practice.

Focusing on nutrients is not easy.  The Nutrition Facts Label can be helpful for assessing the three nutrients that health professionals recommend limiting. As you’ll note from the label above, the sodium percentage stands out from the other Daily Value percentages. Palatability is as important to me as health when I cook at home so I salt to taste. Although I use salt in moderation, the food police will still bang on my head for using too much salt. Compared to the high sodium valued seen in restaurant meals or Consumer Packaged Goods (CPG) however, my moderate use looks a lot better.

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American who pay attention to labels are used to putting nutrients first because that’s the message labels have been reinforcing for the last 50 years. The FDA (Food and Drug Administration) has been nutrient focused for 5 decades! It wasn’t until December 2024 that a “meaningful amount” of food became a component for using the word “healthy” on food product labels. It’s a positive step however and I applaud the FDA for finally acknowledging that food does count.

🟢Braised Lamb Shanks. Less meat better than giving up meat.

My traditional Christmas meal for the last couple of years has been lamb shanks. I use my tagine and cook the shanks in a slow oven with aromatics, tomato, and dry vermouth.

Before the braising process starts, the shanks get a 20 minute oven roasting as the picture above illustrates. They look a lot different of course after braising, but a picture of that initial roasting makes it easier to see the shanks themselves as well as the fat content.

The shanks come out so tender you can cut them with a fork. And they taste so good most folks want a whole one on the plate. As for me, a half a shank will do. The label above reflects the facts for approximately 1/2 a lamb shank.

The ingredient list is simple and short – lamb, tomato, dry vermouth, onion, fennel, carrot, olive oil, parsley, salt. That means a green 🟢 for NOVA compliance. But as happens with so many of my traditional recipes, lamb shanks get a thumbs down for “healthy” due to the saturated fat from the meat.

As my zealous colleagues love to point out, avoiding ultraprocessed food products is not good guidance for a healthy dietary pattern. And lamb shanks are a good example of what my colleagues are pointing out. Even though lamb shanks have less visible fat than lamb chops, there’s enough to exceed recommended values. Those beautiful lamb shanks aren’t high in saturated fat but they don’t qualify as lean either. Even a moderate amount of saturated fat is more than the evidence based percentage DV (Daily Value) allows.

Am I concerned about a moderate amount of saturated fat? No, not really. As I used to tell my clients when I worked in counseling, you can eat pretty much what you want to as long as you’re willing to manage frequency and portion size. So if fat isn’t the uncomfortable truth, what is?

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My uncomfortable truth is sustainability. Beef and lamb have environmental issues, even when the animals are pasture raised and grassfed. And that issue concerns me.

Industrial livestock production can and does cause significant environmental damage. Eating less meat and more plants is better for the environment. So what’s an omnivore like me to do? I’ve wrestled with that question for a long time and here’s what I’ve come up.

I’m fussy about sourcing and avoid industrial production when ever I can.

I also take my own good advice – smaller portions less often. The lamb shanks are a once a year celebration meal. And I know that what’s important about celebration meals is sitting back and enjoying friends and family.

I do have another approach to sustainability but I’m going to save that one for another post.